Self Help

Leather is very durable and will last for decades with proper care. But when it loses its oil, leather becomes brittle and tends to crack.

A good leather-conditioner is saddle soap, containing lanolin derived from sheep’s wool. Also effective are Castor oil and cod-liver oil. Rub in the oil with the fingers, allow the excess to soak in for an hour or so, then wipe the surface to prevent pickup of grit. Saddle soap also serves as a cleaning agent. Always allow wet leather to dry slowly in the open air.

Drape garments to their normal shape on hangers away from direct heat. Boots, shoes and luggage must not be left to dry on the floor in a closet. Leather is most susceptible to mildew when it is wet or damp. Keep these articles out in the open, in a lighted place, until dry.

Oiled Work Shoes: The combination of waterproofing and softness can be retained by cleaning only with a mild soap and water, followed when dry with an application of cod-liver oil. The frequency of oiling is determined by the degree of flexibility and water-proofing desired.

Smooth & Polished Leather: Wipe off surface dirt with a damp cloth. If only slightly soiled, an application of polish and wax will restore the finish. Very soiled leather is best washed with a neutral soap (any good grade of toilet or castile soap will do) or specially compounded saddle soap containing lanolin. Patent leather belts, handbags, chair coverings, briefcases and luggage should be treated with castor oil; use a thin coat of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on bookbindings. A good silicone polish on garments prevents rain-spotting.

Stains or spots that are not removed by soap and water may sometimes be lifted with a suitable solvent or with a cloth moistened with methylated spirit, depending on the type of stain. However, all solvents must be used with discretion to avoid leaving ring marks or altering the original color.

Tabletops: When the leather cover on a table, desk or jewelry box begins to curl up at the corners, reglue it promptly before the leather shrinks and will need to be stretched to fit = a difficult task when combined with gluing. Coat both surfaces, that is, the exposed wood top and the underside of the leather, with rubber cement. Keep the parts separated with a toothpick or similar spacer, while the cement sets for about 20 minutes; then roll the leather down into the corner. Start from the bonded part of the leather, move the fingers forward to the corner while pressing down the leather, a method that will avoid trapping air bubbles under the leather. Finally, tap down hard on the cemented leather to be sure of a good bond.

Upholstery Leather: Routine vacuuming of dust and occasional cleaning with a damp cloth, followed by an application of saddle soap or other oil-based conditioner, should keep upholstery leather in good condition indefinitely. Keep wetting to a minimum. Little can be done to rejuvenate leather surfaces that have been scuffed or ripped, replacement being about the only practical course. Large leather sections can be obtained from crafts supply firms for do-it-yourself applications.